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Ecce Homo? Prima Donna!
The Times They Are a-Changin'
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Lorenzi@Larusmiani 
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Ecce Homo? Prima Donna!
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MATTHEW BOURNE
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RUSSIAN COUTURE
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Fashion Film Festival Milano
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KLEZMATICS
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SUZY MENKES goes DIGITAL 
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Via Gesù vs Savile Row. The Quest for the Best. Men fashion is definitely taking centerstage in growth these days as Milan launches its own version of Savile Row. Milan's Via Gesù becomes “La Via Dell’Uomo” ("Men's Street") – a gentlemen's row, the epicenter of men’s Italian lifestyle. The goal is to transfer the Via Gesù into a shopping street exclusively for men, allowing the fast-paced gentleman of today to find “all the services and accessories he is used to” all in one place. “Via Gesù is more than Savile Row or any other shopping streets, which are deserted after the stores are closed. It is a lively street, with residences and which has held onto its authentic Milan-style vibrancy with normal activities that take place every day,” says Umberto Angeloni, President and CEO of Caruso.
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Via Monte Napoleone, Milan




 

film:.
Milan Moon Dust
 

 
 
 
 


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credits

Milan Moon Dust
director: Matt Dowson
screeplay: Hanna Meyer
starring: NAT The Precious ONE / Leonardo Galeazzi - Bass-baritone interpreting Mozart's 'The Marriage of Figaro' - "Aprite un pò quegli occhi"
music: Bob Powell, The Hope Chest /Marcello Calabrese, Comfortably Numb / Nord-West Watcher, Short-tone poem / Orchestra I Pomeriggi Musicali, Nicola Valentini,  Director Leonardo Galeazzi, Bass-baritone / DJ Moonbird / Husky Rescue, Rainbow flows
Poem: Mary Oliver, The SummerDay

Special thanks, Valentin Yudashkin, Couture


Ecce Homo? Prima Donna!
Via Gesù vs Savile Row. The Quest for the Best.

Milan's Via Gesù becomes “La Via Dell’Uomo” ("Men's Street")
 

Via Gesù vs Savile Row. The Quest for the Best. The celebration of Savile Row's handcrafted suits in online forums, top men's magazines and promoted by its own association on the Savile Row Bespoke website (www.savilerowbespoke.com) has allowed tailors on the Row to make a centuries-old tradition irresistible to well-off modern men seeking top quality. “London is the home of menswear. We invented the suit and Savile Row is the most important men's shopping street in the world which offers a quality and aspect of heritage that you simply can't get anywhere else,” said Dylan Jones, editor at GQ UK. Oh noooo! Mr. Jones, please take a long, deep and ‘customized’ breath! In Milan they think different.
“Via Gesù is more than Savile Row or any other shopping streets, which are deserted after the stores are closed. It is a lively street, with residences and which has held onto its authentic Milan-style vibrancy with normal activities that take place every day,
says Umberto Angeloni, President and CEO of Caruso.

Caruso flagship / Milan's Via Gesù 

Differently from other places around the world that come to mind in connection with men’s elegance (for example, Savile Row or Jermyn Street in London), which are totally deserted after the shops close, Via Gesù is also the home  of numerous RESIDENTS.
Upper middle-class Milanese families, such as the Bagatti Valsecchis, who have been living here for generations and who still enjoy their “secret gardens” that so fascinated Stendhal.
Via Gesù, linking Via Spiga at its north end to Via Montenapoleone at its southern extremity, is only 270 meters long. An ideal destination for a man with little, precious time to spend indulging his preferred extravagance: enjoying the Italian lifestyle in its truest sense. Here, one can stroll past buildings made to the measure of man, exhibiting incredible stratifications of history, taste the most delicious products of Italian gastronomy, retreat to the rooms of an ex-convent, or relax at a full-service spa chiseled into the rock – and above all, dedicate oneself to the most Italian of men’s pleasurable pastimes: fine dressing.

Milan's Via Gesù / a shopping street exclusively for men.

So, now the real story is — who's cooler, the British or the Italians? After all, the British invented the lounge suit 200 years ago and it's remained virtually unchanged ever since. Unfortunately for the British, it's the Italians who are the dominant force in men's clothing, who built on the British blueprint and took it international.

The Dangerous Summer is a nonfiction book by Ernest Hemingway published posthumously in 1985 and written in 1959 and 1960. The book describes the rivalry between bullfighters Luis Miguel Dominguín and his brother-in-law, Antonio Ordóñez, during the "dangerous summer" of 1959. It has been cited as Hemingway's last book.
credits: “EH8751P ca. 1959 Ernest Hemingway signing an autograph at bullfight in Aranjuez, Spain, 1959-1960: Box 23 Folder 17. “Unknown. Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston” | "The Dangerous Summer." ..... 1960 LIFE Magazine Article, A4491A. LIFE 19600905 | Antonio Ordóñez and Ernest Hemingway, 1959 Malaga, Spain.


“If you want to travel gaily,”
wrote Hemingway in The Dangerous Summer, “travel with good Italians.” This disposition and inspiration, in turn, generates the capacity to create exquisite designs and handicrafts. “The phrase,” - says Mr. Angeloni“also evokes the various clusters of small manufacturers and artisans, each specializing in a niche product or phase of production, which together form a living organism capable of constantly evolving traditions. Although this fertile network has practically disappeared in other European nations, it has proved to be quite resilient in Italy so far, probably because its most devoted and fastidious clients are the Italians themselves. So these romantic and technical interpretations reinforce each other. The contemporary grand tour of European culture and quality always begins or ends in Italy. Nowadays, sophisticated consumers come from all over the world, as “Made in Italy” is generally perceived as a superior label: a guarantee of the authenticity, finesse and quality of the product, as well as a reliable indication of a brand’s eminence.
Via Gesù is an ideal showroom for men of refined tastes. “I have been nursing this project since 1998, when I opened the first Brioni store in this artery with discrete charm,” explains Umberto Angeloni, former CEO of the luxury menswear brand acquired by Kerin in 2011.

Via Gesù vs Savile Row
. The Quest for the Best. “In the end, it’s down to your priorities. Want something traditional that’ll last for decades? Go British. Want to look crisp and cool sipping espresso at a Milanese pavement café? You know where to look.” Ecce Homo? Prima Donna!


To promote this true Milanese enclave, an emblem of Made in Italy excellence, Via Gesù, supported by Pitti Immagine, has formed a consortium representing all those whose lives and activities look out on the street launched the “LA VIA DELL’UOMO” ("Men's Street") promotional project, an initiative which, for once in Italy,  benefits everyone and not only those having to do directly with its object. We hope that Via Gesù will come to represent “added value” for the entire city of Milan and, in the upcoming EXPO event, a boutonnière to be worn with style and pride by all of Italy. The President of the Consortium is Ms SCIAKÈ BONADEO, in representation of the residents;  she is flanked by VINCENZO FINIZZOLA, General Manager of the 5-star Four Seasons hotel located on the same street in a former 15th century convent, and by UMBERTO ANGELONI, President and CEO of Caruso.


 “A gentleman notes / Via Gesù Shopping Guide

The companies which have chosen Via Gesù as the destination for their top international clientele are: 
Six luxury menswear and accessories brands / LUCIANO BARBERA, BRIONI, CARUSO, DORIANI CACHEMERE, KITON, STEFANO RICCI and ZILLI.
Three master shoe crafters / BARRETT, DOUCAL’S, and SILVANO LATTANZI.
An atelier/concept room for menswear style culture and research / UMAN.
Two prestigious tailoring establishments / TINDARO DE LUCA and MARIANO RUBINACCI.
An utterly haut de gamme maison / VERSACE.
One historic multibrand store, specialist in Milanese elegance for men/ TINCATI.
The jet set’s Neapolitan shirtmaker / BARBA.
ACQUA DI PARMA,
SALVATI jewelers, with a chic vintage watch corner
Milan’s only 5-star luxury hotel located in a 15th-century ex-convent: the FOUR SEASONS, with its LA VERANDA dining venue in the Cloister and its SPA in the ancient cellars.
IL SALUMAIO, the world’s only “pork specialist” plus restaurant located in a historic house museum, that of early 20th-century Milan’s most elegant men-about-town and collectors, the BAGATTI VALSECCHI brothers.

 
  
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