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The Times They Are a-Changin'

The Times They Are a-Changin'
Ecce Homo? Prima Donna!
Fashion Film Festival Milano
Fashion R(e)Evolution, Exhibitions & Protest.  
It wouldn’t be MILANO MODA DONNA Fashion Week  without  ‘R(e)Evolution,  Exhibitions & Protest’. ‘See-Now, Buy-Now’: R(e)Evolution or Semantic? Wait and See. The six-day event will see 73 runway shows, 90 presentations – nine of them by invitation – and another 13 events. The Sartorialist’s LA PASSEGGIATA / THE WALK Outdoor Exhibition in Via Montenapoleone. Royal Palace is to present the exhibition “THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU”. Naked PETA Activists In Gas Masks Kick Off Milan Fashion Week With Anti-Fur Protest. THE SHOW GOES ON!
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Via Monte Napoleone, Milan





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director / Matt Dowson
screenplay / Hanna Mayer
executive producer / White Wings
here because there: Donatella Versace - Ming Xi - Tim Blanks - The Unknown Spy - Carine Roitfeld - Terry Richarson - Chez Noel - Janet Jackson - Kanika Kapoor - Anna Wintour - Melissa George - Lady Gaga & Fozzi - Inna, Sacha, Xenia - FEMEN - Alessia Marcuzzi - Lana Del Rey - Anna Dello Russo - Daria Strokous
music & words / Leo Alves Vieira & Pangea / Mil Pulsos - Michael T. Fournier History of Punk Rock Podcast 5 - Different Skies - Arcosanitarium

The Times They Are a-Changin'. R(e)Evolution or Semantic?

The Times They Are a-Changin'. ‘See-Now, Buy-Now’: R(e)Evolution or Semantic? Wait and See.
New York and London  Fashion Weeks unveiled a new catchphrase: “Ready to wear – ready to go.” Top labels, including Burberry, Proenza Schouler, MulberryDiane von Furstenberg, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, and Tom Hilfiger have all made moves to towards a ‘See-Now, Buy-Now’ model for a more consumer-friendly spin. They have announced their September 2016 shows will feature fall clothes that will be immediately for sale, abandoning the tradition of debuting designs six months before they arrive in stores. In addition, the ad campaigns will reflect the runway offering immediately.  In other words: The show will become a big marketing and selling tool, not for department stores or glossy magazines, but for direct communication between the brand and the men and women who want to buy it.
Tom Ford, this month called the traditional see-now, buy-later model “an antiquated idea that no longer makes sense.” The American designer, who had been planning to hold a series of small presentations during New York Fashion Week, said all appointments were cancelled, and he would now show both his men’s and women’s Fall collections together next September, at the same time as the clothes were available to buy. “Everyone has to learn new rules,” said Diane von Furstenberg who wants designers to move away from the current show system. With these blockbuster announcements — plus the news that the CFDA is taking a hard look at the existing NYFW format — it's clear that change is coming on a bigger scale. 

The New York Times' Vanessa Friedman recently examined the smartphone's role in the demise of the traditional Fashion Week format: “After being inundated by images and livestreams from runway shows, from awards shows where the items are worn mere days after they appear on the runway, and from ad campaigns (and the making of ad campaigns), by the time these customers see the clothes in stores, the dresses and skirts and suits seem tediously familiar. Old. Over.”
But,  not every designer is using the exact same “See-Now, Buy-Now” model.  Proenza Schouler is offering select runway looks available exclusively at their New York store. Other brands have been testing the idea with small capsule collections: Moschino offers select pieces to buy straight from the runway, as does Versace. “That’s the world today and fashion is about change and evolution. I love the immediacy of life today and how the doors of fashion are opening up so everyone can feel part of a global tribe. We started with a revolution at Versus Versace, transforming it into a ‘see-now, buy-now, wear-now’ brand; it has been the most extraordinary success, finding a whole new audience who lives their lives online.” said Donatella Versace.  A number of smaller designers, too, are showcasing clothes for the current season or cancelling runway shows altogether. Often, the replacement is a digital marketing campaign.
In New York, designer Wes Gordon canceled his New York fashion week runway show in favor of debuting nine vignettes on Instagram.   Tracy Reese is debuting her latest collection in a fashion film entitled “A Detroit Love Song.” Meanwhile, Rebecca Minkoff and Misha Nonoo will market current-season collections, Ms. Minkoff with a runway show and Ms. Nonoo through digital-media campaigns.
What about Milan and Paris? Industry watchers have suggested that Paris and Milan may stick with the current system of showing a season ahead and use the move as an opportunity to reclaim their positions as the true homes of luxury, while New York and London make the switch to the more commercial See-Now, Buy-Now model. “Producing before showing doesn’t avoid a leak, and it can cause a black market of information.”  told NYT Carlo Capasa, the president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda, the Italian Chamber of Fashion. “It's a mess,” told BOF Karl Lagerfeld backstage after the Fendi show in Milan. “I can show my collection and sell them and give people the time to make their choice, to order them and to make them beautifully produced and editors can photograph them. If not, that's the end of everything,
said Lagerfeld, coming down against ‘See-Now, Buy-Now’ fashion shows. Speaking as Gucci posted its strongest revenue growth in three years last week, Kering CEO  Francois-Henri Pinault rejected the idea of moving catwalks to align with retail drops. Mr. Pinault told Bloomberg that showing six months ahead created desire among the customer and that selling direct from the catwalk “negates the dream.” Ralph Toledano, the president of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, expressed the same opinion. “As far as we are concerned, the present system is still valid.” ‘See-Now, Buy-Now’: R(e)Evolution or Semantic? Wait and See. The Times They Are a-Changin'.

FALL/WINTER 2016-2017

Matteo Renzi Italy's Prime Minister  (first on the left) and Giuliano Pisapia Mayor of Milan (second on the left)
Matteo Renzi was set to be the first Italian prime minister to open Milan's twice-yearly women's wear fashion week on Wednesday at a lunch in the city's Royal Palace, together with Milan Mayor Giuliano Pisapia. Italian Chamber of Fashion President Carlo Capasa along  Anna Wintour (editor-in- chief of American  Vogue), Francois-Henri Pinault (CEO Kering) and many Italian designers as Giorgio Armani, Renzo Rosso, Matteo Marzotto Lavinia Biagiotti, Ennio Capasa, Anna Molinari, Alberta Ferretti, Angela Missoni, Donatella Versace,   Brunello Cucinelli, Tomaso Trussardi and Ermanno Scervino.

Lunch at Royal Palace of Milan, Hall of Caryatids - from left: Francois-Henry Pinault, Anna Wintour, Matteo Renzi, Franca Sozzani, Giorgio Armani.

The six-day event will see 73 runway shows, 90 presentations – nine of them by invitation – and another 13 events concluding with a world first on Monday 29 February: “A sustainable drink for a sustainable fashion”, when a year’s research into eco-sustainability in materials for clothing, leatherwear, shoes and accessories -  curated by Sistema Moda Italia, Federchimica, Associazione Tessile e Salute e Altagamma - will be presented over cocktails.


Naked PETA Activists In Gas Masks Kick Off Milan Fashion Week With Anti-Fur Protest. Referencing the iconic “We’d Rather Go Naked Than Wear Fur” campaign, the naked models crashed Piazza Duomo sporting nothing but undies, gas masks and duct tape over their nipples. “FUR IS TOXIC”, read the signs the held in protest. In an attempt to highlight why we shouldn’t wear fur, PETA wants to highlight an issue consumers are not aware of: the presence of unsafe levels of potentially carcinogenic chemicals found on fur. “There’s nothing fashionable about fur torn from the bodies of struggling animals and then laden with chemicals that are dangerous to people who wear it,” says PETA Associate Director Elisa Allen. “PETA is urging kind people to choose fur-free clothing for the sake of their own health and animal welfare”.

Scott Schuman, aka The Sartorialist in Via Montenapoleone
from 23 February to 29 February 2016

During Milan’s Fashion Week, Associazione MonteNapoleone (Association of Via Monte Napoleone retailers) along Samsung is to present the Outdoor Exhibition “The Sartorialist’s LA PASSEGGIATA” (The Walk)  from 23 February to 29 February 2016.

from 19 February to 2 March 2016

During MILANO MODA DONNA  Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2016-2017, Royal Palace is to present the exhibition “THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU”. Curated by Alba Cappellieri and Lino Raggio, the exhibition takes place in the splendid Hall of Tapestries on the main floor of the Palazzo.
The show follows a path that unfolds with glimpses of masterful bijoux from the 1950s through the 2000s, going back through the history of these precious accessories with 300 one-off pieces by world-renowned designers. It’s a journey through time that takes the visitor on a discovery of creations by great designers, such as Walter Albini, Giorgio Armani, Renato Balestra, Biki, Ugo Correani, Enrico Coveri, Gildo Cristian,  Dolce & Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferrè, Emy Forte, Krizia, Lancetti, Missoni, Moschino, Tina Rossi, Luciano Soprani, Valentino, Gianni Versace.

“THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU” exhibition has been created by the City of Milan|Culture, Palazzo Reale, Fiera Milano and HOMI, which is Fiera Milano’s Lifestyles Show.

Royal Palace | THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU - Stefano, Anna Piaggi, Ugo Correani for Versace  - '80

Royal Palace | THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU - Sharra Pagano for Moschino '80

Royal Palace | THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU - Unger for Clotilde Silva 2000

Royal Palace | THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU - Sharra Pagano '90

Royal Palace | THE ART OF THE ITALIAN BIJOU - Sharra Pagano '90
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